Feast Blog

Several weeks ago, multiple newspapers made the announcement that Absinthe was legal again. Legal or no, I had been experimenting with Absinthe in various forms for several years; friends who were making their own, other friends who were smuggling it themselves or having it smuggled into the country, and also ordering it myself from Alandia (with nary a hitch!).

During a lovely Sunday afternoon outing, I settled in at the bar at my favorite North Beach restaurant, Rose Pistola, when I spied an Absinthe fountain behind the counter. "Was it just decorative?" I asked our bartender? "Nope," Tom replied, as he reached up to show me the bottle; Distillée au Val-De-Travers, a Swiss-made version. For the record and for anyone who cares to send me gifts, I actually prefer the Swiss-made Absinthes…

Tom was very deft in his assembly, pulling out the appropriate spoons and sugar cubes. Okay, so they don’t have the right glasses. I can overlook that. Taste-wise, the Kübler is very strong with the burning licorice taste which killed the taste buds for the Bolognese I had ordered. Fortunately, I was pretty well sated with the lovely arugula salad and chickpea farinata I had already eaten with an earthy super Tuscan I had ordered, a 2003 Tassinaia. But what fun to have the full ritual of the Absinthe, more than expertly performed! Bravo, Tom!

Here on the West Coast, train travel is a bit of a rarity. I know East Coast folks utilize them considerably more than we do which is a damn shame. As an adolescent growing up in Southern California, I used to take the train a lot when my parents moved to Oceanside to visit my friends in Orange County. This was before I had a driver’s license or a car. Needing to get to Reno the day before Thanksgiving and knowing that the last thing anyone really wants to do is tackle airport madness, I decided to make the journey via the California Zephyr, the Amtrak train which starts in Emeryville, California and goes all the way to Chicago, Illinois. During that trip, I sat in the coach area with the hoi palloi and sufficed my hunger pangs with a mediocre burger in the dining car. As The Boyfriend and I needed to head back to Reno for Christmas, I cajoled him into taking the train but making a true adventure out of the trip with a little fondue preparation…

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Everyone has their favorite holiday food tradition; roast goose, home-made caramels, fruitcake, prime rib… Mine is cassoulet. For me, it started almost a dozen years ago with a kit sold by D’Artagnan. It was ironic though. I spent what I thought was an exorbitant amount of money for a one-pot meal that would serve six to eight people. And then I promptly caught the flu, gave away my endeavors, and never even tasted it. In the following years, I jumped from recipe to recipe – Julia Child’s, Saveur’s, old copies of Gourmet Magazine’s… Then one year I stumbled on Paula Wolfert’s The Cooking of Southwest France. and her recipe "Cassoulet in the Style of Toulouse." 
 

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A final evening in Miami Beach was spent at Talula, a delightful restaurant just a short walk from the major hotels in South Beach. Dining alone, I had the unmitigated pleasure of having access to the kitchen bar; three separate seats set to give complete action and access to the fun-loving kitchen staff. As I arrived early, I was made to feel very welcome with a glass of Perrier Jouet Champagne while I perused the menu. Very shortly, a basket of freshly baked bread was offered with a delightful spread made with puréed beans, carrots, and a little bite of spice. Putting my hands in the hands of the chef, I opted for a tasting menu with wine accompaniments and over the next two-and-a-half hours, traveled through the following:

• Wappo ceviche garnished with thinly sliced avocado, wasabi tobiko, and a bit of cilantro. There was a side of dressed greens and crisps. The wappo was fresh but I was shocked at the element of spice on the fish. It was not necessarily bad, but to begin a tasting menu with something that shocks the taste-buds so much is debatable. It made me wonder if my entire meal was going to be a series of conflicting flavors and unbalanced dishes.
• A glass of 2006 Coppola’s Director’s Cut Chardonnay. I am not a huge chardonnay fan but this a lovely bouquet with a hint of floral. It was served with a seared scallop dish composed on a bed of lentils du puy, a griddle cake, creme fraiche, and micro greens. There was a drizzle of reduced port wine and that sweetness played well against the savory of the griddle cake. The scallop was perfectly seared with a crisp, golden exterior – a great combination.
• A sweet wine glass was placed in front of me and I knew some foie gras was on its way! The wine poured was a 2002 Francis Tannahill Passito, Washington Gewurztraminer. The foie tasting was actually two. The first, a cold torchon was served on a golden triangle of toasted brioche and adorned with pickled watermelon rind and baby greens. As a torchon goes, it was on the chunky side; meaning, in its preparation, the lobe was probably just de-veined and then the smaller chunks re-assembled before poaching but just barely to hold the pieces together. It is only a slight distraction against those torchons which are perfectly smooth and creamy – not necessarily a complaint, just a different style. The other foie offering was a seared piece, served on a blue corn griddle cake with caramelized fig, a small dollop of creme fraiche, and a grizzle made from a New Mexican chili. This was a perfectly delightful concoction! The savory blue corn was a perfect base to complement the creamy foie and sweet fig. The chili sauce was hardly spicy but provided the perfect bite to contrast the sweetness in the fig. Stunning.
• In being served a Bibo Super Tuscan, I was anticipating a hefty, savory meat dish next. I was wrong, but it was oh, so right. A hot fish course, Black Grouper was served with roasted tomatoes, wilted greens, and gnocchi. The gnocchi themselves were fairly heavy and laden, but the fish itself, with its Italian-esque preparation, stood up extremely well to the well-balanced fruit-laden, earthy wine. One of those great times when a red wine and fish really do complement each other.
• While seemingly a step-back wine wise form the Bibo, a 2005 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir was poured for the first meat course. Seared sweetbreads were served atop an Italian version of Israeli couscous (sorry, can’t remember the indigenous name), wilted greens, toasted pumpkin seeds, and a contrasting drizzle of pumpkin seed oil and a root beer reduction. Here I take slight umbrage to the root beer glaze; I can understand the need for a slightly sweet component to contrast the earthy flavors and lovely texture components of the other ingredients, I just thought it a wrong choice for this dish. The sweetbreads were perfect and the crunchy pumpkin seed component a very interesting dichotomy to the creamy interior of the sweetbreads. I just ate around that particular glaze.
• My last savory dish of the evening was served with a 2003 Heller Estate Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon. The dish was pinot noir-braised shortribs served with baby turnips, wild mushrooms, wilted greens, and topped with a crumble of goat cheese. I need to add that this was dish was also served with a parsnip ravioli which I asked the chef about. Tasting it’s interior, I would have sworn it was mascarpone as it was so intensely sweet and creamy when in fact it was simply a purée of parsnip. While interesting well prepared, it was slight overkill and not necessary for the rest of the dish which was rich and well composed. The turnips especially were fresh and crisp, providing a nice brightness next to the earthiness of the mushrooms with a slight, welcome bite coming from the goat cheese.
• A 20 Year Tawny Sandeman Port was poured in anticipation of the dessert course which was served by sous chef Kyle as this was one of his own creations. Telling me that when he goes to the movies, he buys a box of Raisinettes and pours them in his popcorn, he created a haute cuisine version of this dessert. Starting from the bottom, he has prepared a perfectly smooth popcorn flavor-infused crème brûlée. This was topped with freshly air popped popcorn which had been tossed with raisins and a touch of melted chocolate. Also on the crème brûlée was a scoop of house-made chocolate sorbet and a paper thin popcorn-studded chocolate tuille. This dessert was a revelation in originality. Too often, I order run-of-the-mill desserts which warrant only a bite or two. The last time I can recall having eaten a dessert in its entirety, was Michel Richard’s crème brûlée offering at Bin 8945. This was so innovative and well-executed.

Overall, my evening at Talula was exceptional. The staff were attentive to being a single diner, even offering me some reading material despite my exceptional view of the kitchen from my kitchen bar seat. Despite the minor complaints I had in the meal, overall it was incredibly memorable. One minor problem lies only in the lack of adequate glassware for their wines. While the Champagne and sweet wine were poured into appropriate stemware, there was no differentiation between whites wines or the pinot noir or the cabernet sauvignon. It is a pity that a restaurant with that much going for it can’t see its way to providing appropriate glasses for the appropriate wines.

Sunday
afternoon at ‘The Laundry was shared with special friends, R. and and
his lovely wife, M. With all of the fine dining I have been
subjecting myself to these past few years, it was easy to brush of The
French Laundry as probably being remarkably similar to meals I had
experienced at places like The Dining Room at the Ritz, Manresa, or
Coi. But what I was not expecting was the shear perfection that
occurred. Meaning, while I can often find some level of criticism
*somewhere* in a meal, on this occasion, there was nothing wrong; no
where, in no dish, in no level of service. It was, quite simply,
perfect — and not in a cold, austere, unfeeling manner (as some have
complained on various sites). There has been mention of a lack of soul
but in many cases, the dishes had chi and then some. There is thought
and consideration in those ingredients which complement each other and
heighten their subtleties. It was expensive, yes. And it was worth
every bloody cent…

1999 Schramsberg, "J. Schram" Napa Valley
was served as we sat down to the afternoon adventure. And an amuse of
Gougeres were the first delectable bites offered; small,
chestnut-sized, and surprisingly the inside was warm and gooey. Next to
arrive (also no pic), was the inimitable Salmon Cornets; amazingly
fresh and bright with the sparkling wine.

The first of our
courses was Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Beau Soleil Oyster Glaze and
Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. Creamy and elegant, the saltiness of
the caviar provided the best possible complement to the subtle caviar.

In
preparation for the next several courses, a beautiful salt tray was
offered.

I know I can’t remember all of them specifically, but was
especially enamored with the red one which (if memory serves) occurred
when the water is poured over red clay. The one in the center box was
Japanese from a 10,000 elevation mountain, and the black volcanic is —
I believe — prehistoric. There were also two fleur de sel.

We
knew a foie course was coming as we were served NV Alois Kracher,
Beerenauslese Cuvée from Austria. What a stunning wine! So accustomed
to overly sweet Beerenauslese, this had an unctuous quality with depth
and character which worked so well with the foie – moreso than a
Sauternes would. The foie? Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Au Torchon" with
Sunchokes, Pomegranate Kernels, Marinated Beet "Ribs" and Sicilian
Pistachio Purée[b] Served with freshly toasted brioche toast, we played
with sprinkling various salts on the creamy foie and played with the
occasional addition of pistachio purée. It was during this course that
I the realization of the perfection of this restaurant came to light;
halfway through, with still a half-slice of brioche left along with
half of my foie terrine, warm toast was offered as I was instructed
that it tastes better with warm toast even though I obviously still had
enough left.

2005 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc –
we spoke about our wine offerings and let the sommelier choose where to
go with a mild bit of guidance. Mostly, I wanted to steer away from
buttery Chards and almost anything Californian. I get enough of that
and cherish the occasional old world wines which cross my path. This
wine was a great offering of minerality and flintiness

I was
going to turn down bread, not wanting to get too full on incidentals.
However, two butters were offered and how could one turn down the
opportunity for a comparison? One was a locally-churned butter from
Petaluma and the other from Vermont. The Petaluma butter was sprinkled
with fleur de sel and was much preferred by your’s truly.

2001 Rudi Pichler, "Terrassen" Riesling, Smaragd, Austria
Then
the waiter arrived with a cigar humidor and three separate plates of
risotto, gnocchi, and pasta. With a grandiose flourish, the humidor was
opened to reveal two of the single largest white truffles I have ever
seen. These are BILLIARD BALL-sized white truffles. I have now been
ruined for truffles from anywhere else, I’m sure. There is little doubt
in my mind that when the best truffles are found, undoubtedly they are
going to be offered to the best restaurants in the world and I was
simply fortunate to be dining at that restaurant on the occasion when
such a truffle was available. Here, after the truffle was sliced on our
respective three dishes, a beurre noisette was dribbled on top. We
shared all three dishes and for me, the tagliatelle was the clear
favorite.

2001 Henri Gouge, Nuits St. Georges, France
Extra
Virgin Olive Oil-Poached Fillet of St. Peter’s Fish with Braised
Cardoons, "Piperade," Young Parsley, and Nicoise Olive Emulsion. I have
made olive oil-poached fish and tasted various offerings in
restaurants, but never before has the purest essence of the highest
quality olive oil been to prevalent in such perfectly flaky, moist
fish. The nicoise olive emulsion offered up a different, complex olive
flavor to contrast with the oil essence.

Sweet Butter-Poached
Maine Lobster Tail with Caramelized Pearl Onions, Melted Swiss Chard,
Scallion Filaments, and Maple-Sherry Vinegar Sauce. My initial taste of
this dish was that it was too salty. I believe M. thought so as
well, but as we took second and third bites, whatever saltiness
appeared in the first taste disappeared as the sweetness of the lobster
along with the maple component countered and balanced it all out.

2004 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France
Four
Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Mendocino Coast Cepe Mushrooms,
Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, and Juniper Balsamic "Jus". A masterful
composition, the chicken was moist and extremely elegant, heightened to
a slightly gamey quality with the addition of the juniper ingredient,
the mushrooms providing a substantive, earthy quality.

Elysian
Fields Farm Lamb Rib-Eye with Savoy Cabbage, Salsify, Glazed Sweet
Carrots, "Petit Salé" and Grain Mustard Sauce. It becomes hard to
describe continual perfection. Here were a few bites of lamb so
unctuous and rich, it seemed to be the epitome of what lamb can be.

"Epoisse"
– "Degustation" of New Crop Potatoes and "Sauce Périgourdine". While
not a great photo, this cheese offering was so remarkably special
versus a classical offering of simple slices from a cart. Paper thin
layers of potato hid the melted goodness underneath.

Persian Lime Sorbet – to cleanse the palate.

Three
Wines to pair with our desserts, 1983 Warre’s Port, 1997 Domain
Fontauil, Rivesaltes Amore, France, and NV Vineyard 29 "Aida" Late
Harvest Zinfandel, Napa Valley. Of the three, we all enjoyed the
Vineyard 29 most and one I will definitely try to research.

"Feijoa Sorbet with Maui Pineapple Relish and Angel Cake
"S’Mores" – Cashnew Nut "Parfait," Caramel "Délice" and "Sauce a la Guimauve Flambée

Milk
Chocolate and Peanut Butter "Crémeaux" with Gros Michel Banana Sorbet,
Salted Spanish Peanuts, and Toscano Black Chocolate Sauce

"Charlotte Aux Poires et aux Dates" with Bartlett Pear Sorbet, "Japonais," Candied Hazelnuts, and Pear Coulis

Coffee
and Donuts – Again, I was so excited by the prospect of fried dough, I
could hardly contain myself. And what fried dough… so good they sent
some home with me and I got to enjoy some the next day. The "coffee"
was a heady, thick espresso pot de creme.

In
the final round, with all the sweets, I realize how much I prefer to
finish up with a cheese course and only a mignardise as a sweet bite.
While all the desserts were perfectly wonderful, they were not
especially memorable now, a day-and-a-half later. I am still recalling
the truffles, and the lamb, and the chicken, and the foie… But I
could care less about the desserts. Of course, the fact that I had some
of those donuts for breakfast didn’t hurt.