I am beginning to learn that a die-hard foodie visiting Austin should probably ignore most of the restaurant and set about hitting the food trailers. While San Francisco has a handful of specialty taco trucks — we boast a crème brûlée truck and one that serves frogs legs — but nothing as expansive and diverse as Austin’s food trailers. Even my hostess has been surprised at the shear number that has popped up in such a short time.

Our first round of visiting trailers occurred during lunch time. It was an attempt to hit Gourdoughs that we learned that not all of the trailers are open during the day and that an early evening venture was going to be necessary. Our first stop was at East Side King, located behind a bit of a dive bar, Liberty. Unlike most of the other trailers I saw, this one was hidden from view and you would have to know where it is and when it is open (after 7:00 p.m.). I was also informed that Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, it is open until 2:00 a.m. and many of the local chefs can be found heading there after their own establishments have closed down. The bar is amenable and has a great selection which also enables the diners to grab a drink while waiting for the trailer to open.

Of all the trailers I visited, this was one of the smallest in size and one of the most artistically decorated and what came forth was incredibly impressive. Quite a lot of food was ordered for not a lot of money starting with Poor Qui Buns, roasted pork belly in steamed buns with Hoisin sauce, cucumber kimchee, and green onions. Delightfully tender pork belly, nestled within perfectly steamed buns. So often the buns are over steamed and turn gummy, but this was not the case here. With just enough accountrement and buns to not overpower the meat, these were a great offering. Besides the pork buns, there was also an order Derek’s Favorite Chicken Buns, the same perfect buns holding small bites of tender fried chicken with a touch of spicy Thai mayo.

Considering the giant Cubano sandwich I ate earlier that day, I was happy for some vegetable options. A Fried Brussels Sprouts Salad was a bit on the spicy side for me. Since Brussels sprouts are not in season, it was not a surprise that they were more of a part of a whole, than a showcased single ingredient. Served with shredded cabbage, alfalfa sprouts, basil, cilantro, and jalapeño, there seemed to be more cabbage and seasoning than anything. I did appreciate the bit of fried steamed bun as a “crouton” though. We also shared the Green Papaya salad and Beet Home Fries. The green papaya salad was quite good — about what I have had at better restaurants in San Francisco — and the fried beets were just plain interesting. I don’t think I can remember an occasional when I have ever had a deep-fried beet and the crispy exterior complemented the firm, tender interior. Served with classically Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise (yes, it IS different!) and a bit of Shichimi tougarashi, these were quite a treat.

Eric was the guy working the trailer the evening I visited and he was accommodating despite my sneaking in to get photos, answering questions and doing all of the prep, cooking, and service himself. What surprised me was the fact of tableside service. Yes, we were given a number after we placed our order and I assumed we would be called when our order was ready. Heck, there were easily a dozen people there, waiting for food. Instead, Eric brought the food out himself when he easily could have just called from the trailer and had us pick up our own food. Also, our entire meal was under $30 and that just blows me away.

Despite being mostly full from East Side King, stalwart gourmets that we are, Jane and John drove me over for my much-anticipated Gourdough’s visit. And while we were waiting for our pile of fried dough, we were able to sample a few of the offerings from Odd Duck Farm to Trailer. Jane informed me that the proprietor of Odd Duck, Bryce Gillmore, cut his culinary teeth in his father Jack’s kitchen of Z’ Tejas Grill. This may have given him a little advantage which the people of Austin would be crazy to not take advantage of. While waiting for doughnuts, Jane ordered two dishes, a slice of grilled zucchini bread atop which sat some freshly-sliced grilled peaches, a bit of goat cheese, and a large chunk brunoise of vegetables, zucchini mostly. This combination showed integrity of ingredients and thoughtfulness on the part of the chef; the peach was just firm enough to hold up to grilling while still depicting ripe flavors that complemented the creaminess of the goat cheese.

Another open-face dish was shared, ciabatta toast served with chunks of rabbit leg, grilled squash, eggplant, and goat feta. Again, there is a great deal of consideration given to the combination of ingredients. There is ample freshness in the vegetables with juicy, delectable rabbit. No hint of dryness was detected in the meat, juxtaposing well with the bright vegetables and slightly charred flavor applied to the bread, giving a great crunch against the tender meat.

At this location, we saw many showing up with their own wine and beer and it saddened me that I may not be able to go back to this particular trailer before my departure. The two dishes we tried were a total of $10 and their entire menu could be had for a mere $32; again, a screaming deal. Tiring so much of the $28 entrées in San Francisco and other, large cosmopolitan cities, this form of dining — if truly manageable with food and labor costs — is a sign of how things SHOULD become. I am a huge fan of small plates and lots of flavors and I have often lamented that even the small-plates restaurants have to contend with dramatic overhead, thereby driving up the costs, making it not even that cost-effective way to dine. To scour the trailers of Austin is an enviable way for foodies to taste through literally hundreds of trailers with innumerable variations of a potential meal.

East Side King:

Odd Duck:

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The appetizer platter came with a classic raita dipping sauce, baba ghanouj, hummus, and a third eggplant-based spread that was entirely different than the baba ghanouj and just as enticing. Studded with large olives and drizzled with olive oil, the plate was also surrounded with a little decorative slaw that was mostly unnecessary. I found the hummus to be extremely smooth; these are people who are peeling their garbanzo beans.  I wish I had taken notes on the difference between the two eggplant spreads; one green and a bit piquant and the other (assuming to be the baba ghanouj), with a red pepper base and distinctly more garlic. This was served with very freshly made, warm paratha bread.

Amber, my waitress, was very patient as I took copious notes (which I seemed to have lost on the way home!), so I don’t have all the names of the spices that I wanted to remember. I do, however, remember the special Yemen coffee she recommended. Made with the dried husks of the coffee beans and spiced with ginger and cardamom, Qishr is more of a tea than coffee. It is pale and smooth with hints of the added spice, it did not have the strong tannins of an actual tea nor the bitterness of a brewed coffee. I added a touch of sugar and was very intrigued.

Even though I was very full, chatting with Amber had me intrigued at the national dish of Yemen, salteh, served in a clay pot. This arrives still boiling; the top is a combination of fenugreek and hulba, a spice that has been hand-frothed until very light and fluffy. It is stirred in when the pot arrives. The dish is a rich concoction of vegetables, lamb, and egg in a lamb broth. The hulba is the Yemen version of salsa and it can apparently be very, very hot. I think I was lucky that it was a bit more on the mild side. The vegetables I uncovered included zucchini and peas and there was a thickness brought about from potatoes. This was served with a different flat bread. Ali, the owner came out to see if I was enjoying myself and told me that this square flatbread was made by a Moroccan woman he knows and is lightly grilled in butter. The richness of the butter helped cut through the spiciness of the dish.

Water is served with sliced cucumbers, the service is exemplary and helpful, and when Ali, the owner, came out to serve the salteh himself (he probably wanted to see the lone, fat white woman who was asking so many questions), I inquired about the potential of fried dough… His eyes lit up and he assumed I knew already what the dish was (since there was nothing like it on the menu). He kissed my hand and told me that he would be happy to prepare any classic Yemen dish for me, whether or not it was on the menu. I am so looking forward to returning. A word on the prices; the current menu prices were exceedingly cheap. Amanda acknowledged that the menus are being re-printed. Currently, appetizers are listed between $1.75 and $3.95 with entrées listed between $5.95 and $9.95. Way too inexpensive if they want to stay in business. My two dishes and coffee with bread came to just over $21.00 and the salteh came home with me for dinner (and probably breakfast). I need to go back with lots of friends to order lots and lots of dishes. One last note: This is a wholly Muslim restaurant and no wine is served.

(415) 441-8832

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