Feast Blog

I did a lot of foolish things in coming to Miami Beach for Art Basel alone. First, I took a red-eye flight that put me into Miami Beach at 4:30 a.m. Bad timing. I should have been here the night before or several hours later. This is not a town that wakes up much before 10:00 a.m.  Second — and most obvious — is that I came alone. The convention center hosts over 200 galleries showcasing more than 1,500 artists and far too often I desperately wanted to turn to someone and exclaim, "ohmygosh" or "isn’t that hideous!" Truthfully, I only walked two or three aisles during my first visit and that has not accounted for the fact that there are numerous additional locations of exhibits.

But there is solace in platters of stone crab! I am walking distance to Joe’s Stone Crab which provided my first lunch and will be hard to beat. 

Generally, the event is a difficult far to navigate as the planners, while offering listings of events on their website, failed to include an adequate map beforehand so that one could determine what is happening where. In this regard, I am comparing this event with the incredibly successful and well-planned Time-Based Art in Portland, Oregon. Granted, not nearly as heavily attended, but an easier event to plan for, especially for a first-timer. Finally, before I head out for dinner, this is an event for insiders and the über rich with connections. It is hardly an understatement that those with money get access and attention. But I’ve got three days left and hopefully the slight feelings of displacement and bewilderment will subside.

I must confess a bit of shame. For over three years, I drove by the di Rosa Preserve and never stopped. You see, from the road, all I saw were what looked like cardboard sheep, strategically placed on a hillside by the parking lot, and an aluminum-siding building far too industrial to house any "worthwhile art." Yes, I am ashamed… I so it was with complete awe and astonishment that my Art Partner, B, and I set out for their two-hour tour. There are a number of tours available; from a simple one-hour Introductory tour to a far more extensive, two-and-a-half-hour Discovery tour (only available on Saturdays). As it was a Thursday for us, the best we could do was a two-hour Discovery tour which I certainly anticipated as sufficient as I tend to experience visual overload after about two hours.

What could most definitely NOT be anticipated was the shear magnitude and volume of art which exists at the Preserve. In my meager photo slide show, be aware that the Preserve does not allow photography inside galleries. Only photographs of those sculptures which are exterior to the buildings are permitted. The tour guide is a well-educated docent, eager to offer historical context to the establishment. In short, Rene di Rosa, who worked for the San Francisco Chronicle in the early 1960s, purchased some "farm land" in the Carneros region of the Napa county. That farm land became viable and lucrative vineyards for the burgeoning wine industry which enabled Rene to amass an uncomparable collection of Northern California artists’ works. The 53-acre estate contains a number of buildings for the collection, site-specific installations, as well as dozens (if not hundreds) of sculptures set amongst the foliage and landscape.

Besides the addition of constructed gallery space, the tour includes access to the di Rosa’s private house. Here one can see how Rene and his wife, Veronica (an artist in her own right), filled their life and living quarters to the brim with artwork. So extensive was their obsession, that multiple large paintings are even mounted on the ceiling of their French-built stone house. The true downside of the tour is the lack of time compared to the massive amount of art which exists. The docent has a tight time schedule to get the group through the multiple buildings and site-specific settings in the allotted time. Quite frankly, there is simply too much to see and take in and were I to live in the area again, I would gladly join just to have frequent access to the over 1,600 works of art by celebrated likes of which include Roy de Forest, Robert Hudson, Paul Kos, Viola Frey, and Mildred Howard.

Reservations required

5200 Carneros Highway 121
Napa, California 94559
707.226.5991

Photograph taken with the iPhone; Friday, November 18th – approximately 7:30 a.m. The sunrise over the Suisun harbor.

Sunday
afternoon at ‘The Laundry was shared with special friends, R. and and
his lovely wife, M. With all of the fine dining I have been
subjecting myself to these past few years, it was easy to brush of The
French Laundry as probably being remarkably similar to meals I had
experienced at places like The Dining Room at the Ritz, Manresa, or
Coi. But what I was not expecting was the shear perfection that
occurred. Meaning, while I can often find some level of criticism
*somewhere* in a meal, on this occasion, there was nothing wrong; no
where, in no dish, in no level of service. It was, quite simply,
perfect — and not in a cold, austere, unfeeling manner (as some have
complained on various sites). There has been mention of a lack of soul
but in many cases, the dishes had chi and then some. There is thought
and consideration in those ingredients which complement each other and
heighten their subtleties. It was expensive, yes. And it was worth
every bloody cent…

1999 Schramsberg, "J. Schram" Napa Valley
was served as we sat down to the afternoon adventure. And an amuse of
Gougeres were the first delectable bites offered; small,
chestnut-sized, and surprisingly the inside was warm and gooey. Next to
arrive (also no pic), was the inimitable Salmon Cornets; amazingly
fresh and bright with the sparkling wine.

The first of our
courses was Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Beau Soleil Oyster Glaze and
Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. Creamy and elegant, the saltiness of
the caviar provided the best possible complement to the subtle caviar.

In
preparation for the next several courses, a beautiful salt tray was
offered.

I know I can’t remember all of them specifically, but was
especially enamored with the red one which (if memory serves) occurred
when the water is poured over red clay. The one in the center box was
Japanese from a 10,000 elevation mountain, and the black volcanic is —
I believe — prehistoric. There were also two fleur de sel.

We
knew a foie course was coming as we were served NV Alois Kracher,
Beerenauslese Cuvée from Austria. What a stunning wine! So accustomed
to overly sweet Beerenauslese, this had an unctuous quality with depth
and character which worked so well with the foie – moreso than a
Sauternes would. The foie? Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Au Torchon" with
Sunchokes, Pomegranate Kernels, Marinated Beet "Ribs" and Sicilian
Pistachio Purée[b] Served with freshly toasted brioche toast, we played
with sprinkling various salts on the creamy foie and played with the
occasional addition of pistachio purée. It was during this course that
I the realization of the perfection of this restaurant came to light;
halfway through, with still a half-slice of brioche left along with
half of my foie terrine, warm toast was offered as I was instructed
that it tastes better with warm toast even though I obviously still had
enough left.

2005 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc –
we spoke about our wine offerings and let the sommelier choose where to
go with a mild bit of guidance. Mostly, I wanted to steer away from
buttery Chards and almost anything Californian. I get enough of that
and cherish the occasional old world wines which cross my path. This
wine was a great offering of minerality and flintiness

I was
going to turn down bread, not wanting to get too full on incidentals.
However, two butters were offered and how could one turn down the
opportunity for a comparison? One was a locally-churned butter from
Petaluma and the other from Vermont. The Petaluma butter was sprinkled
with fleur de sel and was much preferred by your’s truly.

2001 Rudi Pichler, "Terrassen" Riesling, Smaragd, Austria
Then
the waiter arrived with a cigar humidor and three separate plates of
risotto, gnocchi, and pasta. With a grandiose flourish, the humidor was
opened to reveal two of the single largest white truffles I have ever
seen. These are BILLIARD BALL-sized white truffles. I have now been
ruined for truffles from anywhere else, I’m sure. There is little doubt
in my mind that when the best truffles are found, undoubtedly they are
going to be offered to the best restaurants in the world and I was
simply fortunate to be dining at that restaurant on the occasion when
such a truffle was available. Here, after the truffle was sliced on our
respective three dishes, a beurre noisette was dribbled on top. We
shared all three dishes and for me, the tagliatelle was the clear
favorite.

2001 Henri Gouge, Nuits St. Georges, France
Extra
Virgin Olive Oil-Poached Fillet of St. Peter’s Fish with Braised
Cardoons, "Piperade," Young Parsley, and Nicoise Olive Emulsion. I have
made olive oil-poached fish and tasted various offerings in
restaurants, but never before has the purest essence of the highest
quality olive oil been to prevalent in such perfectly flaky, moist
fish. The nicoise olive emulsion offered up a different, complex olive
flavor to contrast with the oil essence.

Sweet Butter-Poached
Maine Lobster Tail with Caramelized Pearl Onions, Melted Swiss Chard,
Scallion Filaments, and Maple-Sherry Vinegar Sauce. My initial taste of
this dish was that it was too salty. I believe M. thought so as
well, but as we took second and third bites, whatever saltiness
appeared in the first taste disappeared as the sweetness of the lobster
along with the maple component countered and balanced it all out.

2004 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France
Four
Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Mendocino Coast Cepe Mushrooms,
Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, and Juniper Balsamic "Jus". A masterful
composition, the chicken was moist and extremely elegant, heightened to
a slightly gamey quality with the addition of the juniper ingredient,
the mushrooms providing a substantive, earthy quality.

Elysian
Fields Farm Lamb Rib-Eye with Savoy Cabbage, Salsify, Glazed Sweet
Carrots, "Petit Salé" and Grain Mustard Sauce. It becomes hard to
describe continual perfection. Here were a few bites of lamb so
unctuous and rich, it seemed to be the epitome of what lamb can be.

"Epoisse"
– "Degustation" of New Crop Potatoes and "Sauce Périgourdine". While
not a great photo, this cheese offering was so remarkably special
versus a classical offering of simple slices from a cart. Paper thin
layers of potato hid the melted goodness underneath.

Persian Lime Sorbet – to cleanse the palate.

Three
Wines to pair with our desserts, 1983 Warre’s Port, 1997 Domain
Fontauil, Rivesaltes Amore, France, and NV Vineyard 29 "Aida" Late
Harvest Zinfandel, Napa Valley. Of the three, we all enjoyed the
Vineyard 29 most and one I will definitely try to research.

"Feijoa Sorbet with Maui Pineapple Relish and Angel Cake
"S’Mores" – Cashnew Nut "Parfait," Caramel "Délice" and "Sauce a la Guimauve Flambée

Milk
Chocolate and Peanut Butter "Crémeaux" with Gros Michel Banana Sorbet,
Salted Spanish Peanuts, and Toscano Black Chocolate Sauce

"Charlotte Aux Poires et aux Dates" with Bartlett Pear Sorbet, "Japonais," Candied Hazelnuts, and Pear Coulis

Coffee
and Donuts – Again, I was so excited by the prospect of fried dough, I
could hardly contain myself. And what fried dough… so good they sent
some home with me and I got to enjoy some the next day. The "coffee"
was a heady, thick espresso pot de creme.

In
the final round, with all the sweets, I realize how much I prefer to
finish up with a cheese course and only a mignardise as a sweet bite.
While all the desserts were perfectly wonderful, they were not
especially memorable now, a day-and-a-half later. I am still recalling
the truffles, and the lamb, and the chicken, and the foie… But I
could care less about the desserts. Of course, the fact that I had some
of those donuts for breakfast didn’t hurt.

I like documentaries and having grown up during the age of space exploration, I was completely charmed at the recollections of those astronauts who were the first to venture into space and, ultimately, to walk upon the moon. While watching this with my 30-something BF, I realized he was born after the initial moon landing of which I still have very vivid memories. The documentary had many amazing shots I had not previously seen and while there is the question of the absence of Neil Armstrong’s recollection is this film, in Roger Ebert’s review of the film, he mentions Armstrong saying that he didn’t like taking part in projects of this sort because he feels he tends to overshadow all the other astronauts and staff who deserve just as much credit for the Apollo program.

What the film brought back to me was something the BF didn’t understand; when 9/11 occurred, America (and much of the world) had a collective experience of despair. During the first moon landing, the entire world experienced a collective joy in the possibility that we — as humans — could do anything. As a child, it was this pervading sense of hope and unconquerability that shaped and framed my upbringing. And it was this feeling of invincibility that I had all but forgot which this film brought back to me.