Feast Blog

Following Lucy Vanel’s fabulous site, I took the opportunity to wander the Avenue Victor Hugo for a bit of boutique and antique shopping for a little solo Lyon adventure. Realizing I had not bothered with breakfast and getting quite peckish, the Brasserie l’Espace was inviting for one very specific reason: Jambon Persillé. Now if I had paid attention, I might very well have passed a dozen such bistros and brasseries all serving this illusive dish, but it was not since my time in Los Angeles, and my access to a French ex-patriots Florence & Bruno Herve Commereuc that I had authentic jellied ham with parsley.

(more…)

Thanks to some last minute recommendations from friends, a small travesty was averted. We arrived in Lyon on Sunday – a day when most restaurants are closed. Fortunately, Brasserie L’Est, owned by the inimitable Paul Bocuse. A brasserie, I was a bit overwhelmed with haute cuisine and desirous of simpler fare. There is a bit of a circus feel to the restaurant when you enter, with movie posters of train movies on the walls and a model train running around a track, just below the ceiling. An open kitchen (with a microphone for the head chef) puts you in the middle of the action. It was all perfectly charming.

(more…)

A Saturday-night drive around Lake Geneva to Montreux was an unexpected surprise. Located in the Fairmount hotel is Jaan, a previously Michelin-starred restaurant (didn’t see it on the 2008 list) in an elegant Belle Epoque-styled hotel overlooking Lake Geneva. Up front, I will state emphatically that the food served was easily some of the most artistically-plated and exceptionally tasting that I can recall. I will also advise that the service was so painfully slow as to have made me consider walking out. Perhaps that is what caused the loss of their Michelin star, but if one is patient, than one can be rewarded with some exceptional cuisine.

(more…)

In case you’ve been following along, Sunday marked our last day of scheduled events (and hotels). We rented a car and are setting out to just drive around and explore, heading first towards Lyon. I have some wonderful food adventures to share from Geneva and still need to write up my artistic thoughts about Gaudi and Dali from Barcelona.

We have to be back in Carouge (near Geneva) on Monday evening but so far, have booked no hotels and I am not researching any restaurants or eateries whatsoever; it is all going to be kismet. There was some concern about rain but it seems it will be just a sprinkle or two (funny, since my London bud informed me of snow a day or so before we arrived and that it snowed again yesterday). It seems that fortune is smiling down on the weather front, my only very rainy day was the visit to the Tate.

Gee, I like Europe!

These are a handful of pics of food from Barcelona. Well, that first shot is actually behind a closed window of a dry-goods shop and the towels which were decoratively displayed in such a delectable fashion. Most are from the market. What the Borough market in London does for cheese, the St. Joseph La Boqueria market in Barcelona does for fish…

Yes, there is a lot more available for purchase as seen by the bounty of fruits and vegetables and meat, but it is the quantity and quality of fish which astound. We talked about renting an apartment so we could just shop at the market and prepare our own meals and I think that next time, that simply must be done. Especially since I was unable to eat at most of the finer restaurants I was hoping to… Not that what I ate was especially bad (okay, the Kangaroo Carpaccio ranks up there with being incredibly regrettable), but I know I missed some truly stellar establishments by sufficing with what was convenient.

(more…)